Plumb the drain lines to the manufacturers specifications. If you do not have experience installing a bidet, call a professional like Brixton Plumbers for this job. Apply some plumbers type putty onto the base of the bidet tap, and then place the tap body into the mounting holes. Thread the washers and locknut onto the tap body shank and tighten by hand. Place a roll of plumbers putty under the drain flange. Insert the flange in the drain hole, fit the gasket and washer, and then thread the nut onto the flange. Do not fully tighten. Fit the pop-up drain apparatus following the manufacturers diagram. Place the bidet in its final position. Check alignment. Mark the locations of the two side-mounting holes through the drilled holes on the stool and onto the floor. Remove the bidet and drill 3?16″ pilot holes through the marks on the floor. Push the floor bolts (included with the bidet basin) into the holes. Position the bidet so the floor bolts fit into the bolt holes in the base. Connect the water supply back up to the tap on the bidet using compression unions. Make sure to fit the hot/cold supplies to the correct ports on the bidet. Connect the drain line by attaching the P-trap to the drain tailpiece. The trap is then attached to a branch drain line coming out of the wall or floor in the same manner as a sink drain. Of course you may need a professional like a Brixton Plumber to ensure the job is done to the current regulations.Take out the aerator so any objects in the supply line will clear and then switch on the supply. Check for leaks in all the lines. Assemble the bolt caps and thread them onto the floor bolts. Note: Do not dispose of any objects in the bidet.

Instead of running a pipe, a good idea is to bend the pipe. The simplest equipment for this job is a bending spring. This is quickly mastered with a little practice. Professionals services such as Brixton Plumbers will use a pipe bender and these are readily available from hire shops. Measuring a length of pipe and marking multiple bends can be a little tricky. Take your time and make one bend at a time. After each one has been carried out, offer the pipe into position and mark the next. If, as is sometimes the case, you simply cant get the pipe into position for marking, you have two options. You can make several shorter pieces of pipe with less bends on each section, and join each length with a straight connection, or carefully mark out the pipe run against the wall and measure each bend, noting of the angle and position before transferring the measurements. A pipe bending spring can also be used. Insert the spring into the pipe so that it spans evenly through the area to be bent. Lubricate with Vaseline if the fit is tight. If its still too tight, make sure youve got the right spring? A spring for the old 1/2″ pipes will simply not fit the metric 15mm equivalent so dont force it. With the spring in place, bend the pipe to the appropriate angle by pulling both ends around your knee. Do so gently though and avoid bending it too far. Even with a spring inside, excessive bending will cause the pipe wall to collapse. Always connect a piece of string to the spring to retrieve it when completed. Dedicated Pipe Benders can make life a lot easier on your knees and are essential when bending pipes larger than 15mm. Professionals such as a Brixton Plumber carry this equipment as standard. Place the pipe in the appropriate size rounded channel. Fit the grooved straight block on the outer edge. Use the lever handles to apply pressure against the straight block. Now continue levering so that it gradually draws the pipe around the circular block, bending the pipe as it goes. Bend to the desired angle then release the handles. Job done.

High Level WC Cistern.1). Is the old-fashioned type that fixes (above head height, with a long downpipe and chain operated flush. This type is ideal of your restoring pre-1950s property. Reproduction and antique designs are readily available. Make sure that there is enough ceiling height to accommodate it. Brixton Plumbers can fit any WC.Low Level WC Cistern.2). Low-level WC systems are the most common type. They are usually made of ceramic and fixed on brackets with a short downpipe and a lever operated flush.Slimline WC Cistern.3). A slimline WC cistern is a slender plastic system screwed directly to the wall, with a short downpipe and a lever or knob operated flush, it is a good option if you are short of space and money. It is fragile in the sense that its structural integrity relies on the lid being correctly fitted. Slimline systems are not suitable for toilets that will get a lot of rough usage.Close Linked WC Cistern.4). Closed linked WC system is designed so that the pan and cistern are closely linked as a single feature. It is made in ceramic, with no visible downpipe, and the U bends or traps are part of the form. It can be tricky to fit, so it is not a good idea if you are a nervous plumbing novice.Concealed WC Cistern.5). Concealed WC cisterns are made in ceramic, plastic or metal, and designed to be completely hidden from view behind a panel. The downside is that the panel has to be easily removable, so that the system can be maintained, this is undesirable if you want to tile the bathroom.Wash Down WC Pan.6). The wash down WC pan is a traditional design that we all recognise and has the waste pipe running back through the wall or down through the floor. It is a good, low cost, easy to fit option, but you must make sure that you get a WC pan that has back through the wall down through the floor design to match the original. A Brixton Plumber knows this model.

Installing a vanity cabinet and sink is an excellent way to get more storage and countertop space out of your bathroom. Keep in mind your storage needs, size requirements/limitations, and personal tastes when making you selection and consider asking professional advice from companys such as Brixton Plumbers . The water lines should have caps soldered or glued and you’ll need to cut them off once the vanity is set. Measure the water and?drain line locations on the wall. Transpose them to the back of the vanity and cut holes out for them. Cut the vanity’s sink opening if it isn’t already. Set the vanity over the lines and against the wall. Check that the cabinet is setting level/square and secure it in place.Connecting Vanity SinkFollowing manufacturer instructions, connect the spout, water valves and handles to the sink. Link the supply tee and hose assembly to the spout. Our sink had braided steel lines that we looped to the valves and fastened them with coupling nuts. Attach the water supply lines to the valves if possible, to avoid reaching up under the sink later. Apply plumber’s putty (carried by any Brixton Plumber ) around the drain fitting to form a seal and seat the fitting in the drain hole. Add a washer and slip nut on the bottom and tighten the fitting.?Screw on the drain stopper coupling and its gasket so it lines up with the back of the sink. Feed the stopper’s slip arm through the sink?and connect it to the stopper coupling. Push the stopper fully open and tighten the arm down. Flip the sink upright and set it in the cabinet. Remove any rag or cap plugging the drain stub. Glue a threaded adapter coupling onto the drain stub. Fit the trap and screw it to the adapter and sink drain. Tighten the sink water lines to their shut-off valves. Slowly open a shut-off, check for leaks, then check the other line. Fill the sink, check for leaks around the drain, then drain the water and check the waste line joints. This will also put water in the trap to stop sewer gases. Caulk around the rim of the sink to seal out water and to finish off the sink installation.

After installing a central-heating system the system and its associated pipework should be flushed with water to get rid of debris and flux that can be left behind during the installation. This debris if left in the system can cause corrosion or damage to the valves and more importantly the pump. Professionals like Brixton Plumbers will carry out this work as standard. In order to protect the pump whilst the cleaning routine is carried out it’s best to remove it, maintaining system integrity with a length of pipe. Once this is carried out and the pump is replaced it is much easier to turn the pump impeller with a screwdriver before running the system after flushing, in order to make sure it’s clear and free to turn. If you can feel resistance, drain the system and remove the motor again, then clean and refit the impeller if required. Carried out by a Brixton Plumber as part of their service, a full descaling and cleansing regime can be employed if your system is old or badly corroded. A harsh cleaner or descaler could expose minor leaks sealed by corrosion so use a mild cleanser, introduced into the system via the feed-and expansion tank or into a radiator via the bleed valve. Manufacturers’ instructions vary, but in principle run the cleanser through the system for a week, with the boiler set to a fairly high temperature. Afterwards, turn off and drain the system, then refill and drain it several times if possible, using a hose to run mains-pressure water through the system while draining it. Some cleansers must be neutralized before you can add a corrosion inhibitor. If your boiler is making loud banging noises, treat it and the immediate pipe work with a fairly powerful descaler, running the hot water program only. Of course at any point if you are not confident, call a professional.

Modern toilet systems are too small and cannot accommodate a traditional ball float syphon flush mechanism. Instead the inlet valve is either a modified diaphragm type wit a very short float arm, and miniature float, or an ingenious vertical valve with a float cup that fits round the central column of the valve body. Brixton Plumbers have expert knowledge on this equipment. Both are very quiet when they operate however the float cup will be slow to fill the cistern if it is fed from a storage tank rather than mains supply. In these slimline modern systems the old syphon flushing method is replaced by a plastic valve operated flush mechanism that is operated by top fitted button in the cistern lid. This also incorporates an overflow.The button is in two parts, depressing one part for a short low volume (small amount of water ) flush and both together for a full volume flush (large amount of water ).The button is linked to the plunger rather than the older style wire link float arm system. InstallationThe valve design is very clever but can be tricky to adjust for a correct fit, so when installing the valve must be adjusted so that the critical level on the body of the valve is at least 25mm above the top of the overflow pipe. There is a threaded shank at the base of the valve assembly which gives the relevant adjustment so that correct positioning can be achieved. Guaranteed installation work for this equipment can be carried out by a Brixton Plumber.The float cup inlet valve consists of a rubber ring seal at the base of the cistern which will probably need to be replaced in time. It is recommended that you keep any documentation regarding the unit such as a diagram should you need to replace a defective seal at some point.